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February 1, 2025

The Truth Behind… War Paint


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2017 Broadway production of War Paint (Joan Marcus)

Beauty titans take the stage in War Paint (US/UK), a musical retelling of the rise of – and rivalry between – trailblazing businesswomen Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubinstein. Set from the 1930s to the 1960s, this one-of-a-kind musical drama explores the careers of the iconic Arden and Rubinstein – and the men in their lives – as two legendary beauty empires come to fruition. Learn more about the characters’ journeys in the show, as well as their real-life paths, below.


Elizabeth Arden 

In the show:

As seen in War Paint, Elizabeth Arden exudes confidence and independence. Her physical appearance can only be described as dazzling. In fact, Elizabeth so presents herself in the light of an American blue blood that some might think she was the product of nobility. Elizabeth demands respect from her employees. When her husband, Tommy, who helps her run the company, refers to her in a husbandly fashion in front of the “Arden Girls,” Elizabeth reprimands him and reminds him that in front of the staff she is his boss and must be treated as such. Eventually, Elizabeth and Tommy have a falling out when he wants more recognition from the company. He defects and starts working with Helena Rubinstein, Elizabeth’s fierce competitor.

In real life:

Born on December 31, 1881, in Ontario, Canada, Elizabeth Arden came to the U.S. with her family to pursue the American dream. Arden’s professional efforts led to her building a cosmetics empire that made an impact throughout the world. She first learned about skincare while working various jobs and traveling to France as a young woman. Arden, whose aim was to appeal to middle-aged women, took pride in creating makeup that would be viewed as ladylike. Arden’s Red Door salon, the signature for which she became known, was established in New York City in 1910. Arden’s signature color, pink, would forever be the emblem for the company she built.

Arden had strong competition in Helena Rubinstein, also a cosmetics giant of that time. Both women were arrogant, prideful and egotistical. They were each born in poverty but rose above it. Their rivalry was public, as each of them, both strong women, would not budge. It’s been reported that Arden was involved in the suffragist movement as well as thoroughbred racing.

Arden was married twice. Her first husband, Tommy Lewis, worked alongside her until he betrayed her and began a working relationship with Helena Rubinstein. Her second marriage, to Prince Michael Evlanov, also ended in divorce.

Helena Rubinstein

In the show:

Helena Rubinstein is portrayed in War Paint as a highly successful cosmetic genius. Rising above her meager beginnings, she launches her company in America, in direct competition with her arch rival, Elizabeth Arden, whom she refers to as a saleslady. Working alongside Rubinstein is Harry Fleming, who devises the plan of selling her famous solution as both a daytime and nighttime cream — sold in two separate-colored containers (which customers did not know about). This decision revolutionizes her company, which explodes in sales. Harry wants credit for this innovation, and when Rubinstein refuses, he leaves the company. Helena is ruthless and intimates to Harry that she knows about his homosexual orientation. She holds this over his head in a threatening manner. Helena is presented as ruthless and callous. In the end, these traits backfire when Harry leaves her.

In real life:

Born on December 25, 1872, in Krakow Poland, Helena Rubinstein initially immigrated to Australia, where she began selling creams made with lanolin, which was noted as her secret ingredient. During World War I, Helena opened a salon in New York City, which was the springboard for what became the equivalent of the cosmetics empire run by Elizabeth Arden. Hence, the women became rivals.

Rubinstein demanded respect. She ran her business in a rigid, stoic manner, and asked her employees to call her “Madame.” In addition to her beauty savvy, she was also a philanthropist, donating money to health and medical research organizations.

In her adult years, Rubinstein experienced antisemitism. As the daughter of Polish Jews, she found it hard to assimilate in certain places where she felt she was not wanted.

Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden, who actually never met in real life, passed away within just 18 months of each other.

Tommy Lewis

In the show:

Tommy Lewis is portrayed as the loving husband of Elizabeth Arden, initially appearing as a cheerleader to his wife when she feels threatened by her competitor. However, Tommy soon feels he isn’t getting the recognition he he deserves. The last straw for him is discovering that his wife has offered Harry Fleming a position in the company. Tommy then goes out on the town with a cadre of the Arden girls and, when his wife discovers this, she fires him and ultimately they divorce.

Tommy finds his way into a job with Helena Rubinstein who, years later, also fires him when she questions his incompetence after he didn’t have the foresight to realize that Charles Revson (creator of Revlon) would soon appear on the scene.

In real life:

Husband to Elizabeth Arden, Tommy Lewis was a high-ranking executive in the cosmetics industry. Harry and Elizabeth were married in 1918 until their divorce in 1935. Confident and charismatic, Tommy complained to his wife at the time that Harry Fleming, his counterpart to Helena Rubinstein, was being treated better than he was treated by Elizabeth. Tommy was eventually fired by his wife and found his way into a controlling position with Rubinstein’s company.

Charles Revson

In the show:

In War Paint, the emergence of Charles Revson binds Tommy and Harry in a scene where they reflect on how both women missed out on becoming involved with Revlon. Revson gains notice by advertising on television and leaves cosmetics giants Arden and Rubinstein behind. In the musical, Revson is portrayed as a forward thinker, advertising for the future, though neither Elizabeth nor Helena care to align with his approaches. Revson proceeds to revolutionize the nail polish industry.

In real life:

Born in Somerville, Massachusetts, on October 11, 1906, Revson was a successful businessperson whose crowning achievement would be the founding of Revlon. Before that success, Revson and his brother, Martin, oversaw the television game show The $64,000 Question. A scandal involving the series essentially ended its run but Charles and Martin were not involved. Charles continued to work a variety of jobs as a young man and, after failing to be granted a promotion at a cosmetics company, he decided to go into business for himself. He did, at first, meet with Elizabeth Arden to help promote his nail polish business but she was not interested — nor was Helena Rubinstein. Eventually, Revlon became a successful company, leaving both women regretful, blaming Harry and Tommy’s lack of foresight for Arden and Rubinstein losing out. In his later years, Revson established a fund which would help serve education and health initiatives within the Jewish community.

Harry Fleming

In the show:

Harry Fleming is portrayed as outwardly confident while dealing with the realities of being gay at this particular time in history. He wouldn’t be described as splashy or colorful but rather lonely and private. Harry’s relationship with his boss, Helena Rubinstein, is submissive: he tells her what she wants to hear, which eventually leads to him wanting more from her. It’s his idea to sell the same cream for day and for night — packaged in two separate containers and marketed differently. Harry quarrels with Helena, as she speaks unkindly of his sexual orientation, leading him to leave the company and work for Elizabeth Arden.

In real life:

Harry Fleming never existed. The character was a composite of two of Helena Rubinstein’s close friends who worked with her in business: Patrick O’Higgins, a longtime friend and later her marketing director, and Harry Johnson, who began as an employee of Rubinstein but later defected to Arden’s company.


To license a production of War Paint, visit Concord Theatricals in the US or UK.